Head Start

Hands up if you’ve reached for the clippers/scissors during lockdown. It’s unsurprising as the closure of barbers and salons worldwide has left us with little alternative. And as we (hopefully) continue to slowly emerge from lockdown, we’re suddenly very aware that more people are going to see us and our ‘lockdown hair’. IRL!

Understandably, no-one’s going to be looking the same as before lockdown, unless you’re living with Jal Clarke. We asked East Sussex College Hairdressing and Barbering tutors for advice on caring for your hair at home...

Fringe benefits

If Nicole Kidman in Big Little Lies gave you serious fringe envy, don’t miss Wayne Robertson’s (ESC Eastbourne Barbering Co-ordinator) tutorials on how to cut a long fringe:

Or a short fringe at home:

Yes, all of us girls tried to DIY a fringe when we were young (thinking it can’t be that hard, right?) before quickly realising that the hair framing the face has the ability to COMPLETELY alter our appearance! Oh, and we also forgot that hair springs up when it’s dry (the Lego look was not intentional). Take this advice before reaching for the scissors. Yes, we know, hair grows, but we promise it will save a lot of turmoil in between.

Follow Wayne’s video tutorial or follow Emma Hawkes’ (ESC Lewes Level 2 Hairdressing co-ordinator and owner of Oasis Hairdressing) step-by-step guide:

• Separate your fringe from the rest of your hair and clip out of the way.
• Comb hair down between your fingers, starting at the centre.
• When your fingers are resting halfway across your nose trim a straight line.
• Repeat on each side, tipping fingers down towards the face slightly to frame the face.
• If too long repeat and check both sides are the same

Root of the problem

Thank goodness for balayage and ombré colour trends - the grown out look has meant that foregoing the salon for over three months hasn’t been that much of an issue.

“Many clients have been asking me what they can do about their hair colour until they can get back into the salon,” says Emma. “My advice is to look for a pigmented hair treatment such as Evo Fabuloso colour-boosting treatment. This treats the hair in a true semi-permanent way that washes out. It takes the edge off any roots coming through plus it leaves hair super shiny.”

Alternative easy fixes include Batiste Dry Shampoo (rrp £2.99) with a hint of colour, or L’oreal Paris Magic Retouch root spray (rrp £8.99).

Emma also recommends Colour Wow Root Cover Up. “A few of my clients use this as they can’t get into the salon,” Emma explains. “It washes out easily and doesn't stain the hair.”

Paula Rego, Hairdressing tutor at ESC Eastbourne, recommends adopting this washing technique to prolong hair colour: “Use lukewarm water when shampooing your hair, and use the palms of your hands or the pads of your fingers to prevent over scrubbing and colour fade. This will keep hair looking and feeling great until we see you back in the salon!”

If you are fed up with your shade and desperate for colour out of a bottle, remember: blonde hair can’t just be dyed brown and vice versa - if only a style update was that simple. Trust us, we speak from experience. Grab a warm brown and your hair will be brassy orange if applied over bleached blonde or highlighted hair. Choose an ash brown in a bid to banish orange locks and hair will be left with a lovely green twinge. If that’s not the look you’re going for, then please refrain from that bottle of dye. Root touch ups are an easier fix, or pop on a headband or bandana to disguise grown out roots - you’ll also be getting a head start on Fall 2020’s trend.

Choosing a shop hair colour

If you really can’t wait for your salon to reopen, remember this when you’re comparing boxes of hair dye in your local Boots: the shade on the box is not something to rely on, neither is the name. It’s the numbers of the colours that mirror the science behind the hair colour and determine the end result. A quick tutorial: the first number refers to the flat base colour, which is 1 for black, through to 5 for brown and 10 for the lightest blonde. Some brands even identify 11 and 12 on a colour chart to depict ultra light shades - platinum and bleached blonde.The second number - if there is one, such as 3 and 5, corresponds to the tones added. Pick a 5.1 and you’re getting an ash brown. Choose a 5.3 and you’re getting golden brown. If you’re seeking a blonde shade and have brassy/orange tones, chances are you picked a box with .3 or .5 in it. Learn more about the numbers.

Another option buying shop bought: home highlight and balayage kits but they are far more tricky than they make out to be. Again, take our word for it. They also contain bleach which really dries out the hair. Add extra sun to the mix and it’s a recipe for disaster. Avoid this if you can and opt for a root touch up instead.

Hair care SOS

The good news is, lockdown has probably given your hair a much needed break from heated styling tools. Keep hair in tip-top condition by always following shampoo with a quality conditioner created for your desired effect (volume, smooth, moisture, repair, colour care boost).

“After shampoo and conditioner, always rinse hair with cool water to seal the cuticle, which keeps hair hydrated and smooth, and the colour locked in,” advises Paula Rego,. “Use this time at home to give your hair a break from the heat. Let hair dry naturally and use a sea salt spray like Affinage Salon Professional Salt Spray or Texture Boost to create a holiday look at home.”

If you can’t stay away from the heat, protect your hair by using a thermal protection spray. “I love Affinage Super Sleek Cream,” says Paula. “It’s super light, and is packed with Vitamins A & E, so hair feels super soft. An application lasts for two to three shampoos, it protects from sun and styling damage, and you can take a break from straightening irons!”

Emma Hawkes, Level 2 Hairdressing co-ordinator from our Lewes campus, and owner of Oasis Hairdressing, shares her go-to product for clients: “To tame those locks and keep your ends in the best shape until you can get that trim is Evo Head Mistress Cuticle Sealer (£21). This multi-purpose cream is suitable for any hair type and can be used for blow drying and dressing hair out, wet or dry. When applied to towel dried wet hair it gets rid of tangles so easily and when applied to dry hair it controls flyaways and frizz, leaving hair soft and shiny. What’s more, you only need a small amount so it lasts a long time, meaning it’s a worthwhile investment!”

Increasingly, we are seeing more product lines racking up their eco credentials and this is something we applaud. Sustainable haircare does not mean we have to compromise on the quality of product and the end result. ESC Lewes regularly invites Jody Brooks, from Haus of Brooks, in for demos and workshops with students. Jody uses environmentally sound, ethical, sustainable hair care, tried, tested and selected by salon professionals. They contain no parabens, sulphates, gluten and are made cruelty free. His go-to product for clients to strengthen weak and damaged hair is Happy Campers Wearable Treatment, from £7.

Perfect the salon blow dry at home

So we’ve nailed the colour and condition of the hair. Now if you want to exit lockdown looking as polished as Saffron Barker, then check out Affinage Ambassador Tracey Devine Smith’s Instagram video on creating a bouncy blow dry at home. Get practising!

Pro tip: Use Affinage Salon Professional’s Colour Care range.

Affinage visited ESC to offer pro tips and share styling techniques with our students. Watch the video here.

Have you cut or coloured your hair at home? What style tips have you sworn by in lockdown? Share your photos and videos with us! comms@escg.ac.uk.

Learn with us

If you’re inspired to learn more about hairdressing, check out our courses, which start at Entry Level in Barbering, Level 2 in Hairdressing, through to Level 3 courses. In September 2020 we are excited to be launching new Level 4 courses for adults in Beauty and Hairdressing, so if you’ve already achieved a Level 3 and are ready to take the next step, get in touch for information and to apply (Course code ref: 8019/01). The Level 4 Beauty and Hairdressing pathway includes Salon Management, Public Relations, Management of Health, Safety and Security, Research in the Hair and Beauty Sector and the Chemistry of Hair Products.

Students train in our real working salons, and leading industry stylists are regularly invited in for talks and demos, providing students with essential contacts for work experience and beyond.

Coming soon: Recreate the barbershop at home! Dog clippers...Amazon special delivery... We've been hearing all kinds of stories as to the measures men are taking to stay groomed. Make sure you stay styled with ESC Barbering tutors advice. Watch this space!